DENNIS:
“Ze plain! Ze plain!”
Tattoo on that late ‘70s TV show “Fantasy Island”
Clearly, the TV character played by Herve Villechaize was describing the body of our kitchen island, which, after our recent renovation of the rest of the kitchen, was nondescript and stuck out like a sore thumb.
Three sides of the structure were perfectly flat and nondescript, and the side with cabinets was caught in some limbo between our redone kitchen cabinets and what they used to look like.
It certainly was nobody’s fantasy and, now that I think about it, I might have misunderstood (and misspelled) what Tattoo was saying. No wonder the show never made any sense to me (Marcia: It was the ‘70s — nothing made sense).
What does make sense, though, is what we have done to bring new life and beauty and shape to our kitchen island. And this is after we’d replaced the old cooktop and the island top, two of our early steps in renovating the room.
We added trim to the island to give it some depth and a more polished, finished look, and painted it a color that plays nicely with those in both the kitchen and the adjoining family room.
We even brought in new bar stools, because the old ones made no sense — either in size or shape or color — with the revamped look of the island.
And while perhaps calling it a fantasy kitchen island is a bit, well, dramatic, it’s certainly a huge improvement and ties together the entire living/cooking space. I think it’s probably safe to say that, although the barstools lack rich, Corinthian leather, even Ricardo Montalban, Mr. Roarke on “Fantasy Island,” would approve.
Marcia:
If you’ve been following our column (Dennis: thank you!), you know we’ve been renovating our 1980s/90s-era kitchen for the last year or two.
We can finally check the kitchen island off the list! The original was pretty dated and sad looking, but sturdy. We decided to change things up and paint the island, since the surrounding cabinets had finally been stripped and stained (bit.ly/peckscabinets).
To give the island some style for very little money and effort, we trimmed it out with new wood molding, painted it a dark gray, added black cabinet pulls and bought new barstools.
This project took a couple of weekends and only cost about $200, minus the barstools.
Speaking of barstools, I hope we get them delivered before our deadline. Pier One didn’t have our choice in stock, so we had to order them. (You can order the same barstools here.)
Renovating the kitchen has been a long project, but we broke it down into manageable pieces and over the course of about a year and a half we are finally done. Well, almost done. While working on the island, I noticed we forgot to add baseboards to the bottom of the surrounding kitchen cabinets after we stained them last summer.
We’ll squeeze that project in soon, and then it will finally be done. Though some floating shelves would look really nice above those newly stained cabinets. It’s always something. I blame “Fixer Upper,” Pinterest and cheesy 1970s TV shows!
1. Is your kitchen island sturdy and worth renovating? Ours was solid and made of varnished white oak.
2. We knew there was no danger that our old cabinets had a lead finish, but if you aren’t sure, buy a lead testing kit from most any hardware store. If the finish tests for lead, follow government guidelines for removal.
3. Wear a particle mask and sand the old paint or varnish just enough to rough up the surface with 100-150-grit sandpaper. Work with the grain, using a palm sander or sanding block on flat surfaces and a piece of sandpaper for any decorative molding or uneven surfaces.
4. Remove any dust with a tack cloth.
5. Do you want to just paint your old cabinets a new color or do you want to also add wood trim?
6. We painted and added wood trim. Decide on what style you want — beadboard, shiplap, board and batten or ...?
7. Measure and draw up a design on grid paper. We went with a board-and-batten style.
8. We bought our trim at McCoy Millworks and Home Depot. We used 3”x1/2” trim wood for our vertical and upper horizontal trim. We used 4 1/2”x3/4” trim for our horizontal baseboards that run around the bottom of the island.
9. We have a nail gun (a model about 10 years older than this one) and compressor and used 18-gauge finish nails to secure the trim to the island.
10. Make sure to cut the vertical corner pieces so that they end up the same width. We used a butt joint. One piece was 3” wide and overlapped the corner by it’s depth of 1/2”. The second piece was 3” wide minus the 1/2” (so, 2 1/2” wide), so it butted up to the 3” piece that overlapped the corner of the cabinet. Each face was then 3” wide.
11. Patch any cracks or nail holes with wood filler, let it dry and use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth the surface.
12. Go over the whole cabinet with fine sandpaper and use a tack cloth to remove any dust.
13. Ask your local paint professional to recommend a primer for your project. We got ours from Benjamin Moore and it was recommended for our white oak, which tends to bleed through most primers. We were told that it would also slightly fill in the wood grain.
14. Use two coats of cabinet paint, sanding between each coat, to finish it off. Again, ask your local paint professional about our specific project. We used Benjamin Moore Advance waterborne interior alkyd for our project, which is specifically made for cabinets.
15. Let your cabinet doors dry, reattach and you are done!
Marcia Westcott Peck is a landscape designer (mwplandscape.com or find her on Instagram at @pecklandscape), and Dennis Peck is a senior editor at The Oregonian/OregonLive.
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